I like a classy restaurant that knows the curative importance of brunch. Take Park Tavern, the subtly grand restaurant flanking Washington Square Park in North Beach. It's a space where you can be certain to find your classy-weekend-morning dishes (crispy polenta cakes, Saiku salmon crudo), but has some serious hangover curing items for your...less classy weekend mornings.
Like the Line Cook Lunch ($13). This is, quite simply, a bacon sandwich. Yes: a Nueske's thick-cut bacon sandwich. Diced into postage stamp-sized pieces that have to be half an inch thick, the bacon is loaded into a split French roll (nicely soft and crusty) lined with slices of cheddar cheese, slathered with horseradish aioli, and given a healthy shake of Tabasco sauce for good measure. Shredded Little Gem lettuce tops the sandwich off, and lends a nice fresh crunch. The meatiness of the bacon is, well, awesome, and while I'd have liked the cheddar to be sharper (and more melted), the richness from the aioli along with the kick of the hot sauce more than made up for these quibbles.
But sometimes you need the hair of the dog to get you on the road to recovery. The About Last Night ($9) says it all in the name and reinforces its promise with the ingredient list: Fernet, lemon, and ginger beer. The curative Fernet does good work, freshened by the lemon and mellowed by the ginger beer which, I'm convinced, is the best thing for a morning-after stomach.
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