I'm all for trying extreme brunch dishes—those involving chiles, hot peppers, and mountainous piles of stuff—but when I'm having trouble making decisions, I like to know that I can get a good, solid omelet. The Californian ($9) at Mo's in North Beach is exactly that.
Plate-sized and generously cheesy, the Californian is filled with jack cheese, tomatoes, and sour cream, and served with a sizable hunk of ripe avocado on top. Now, I'll take a good avocado any way you'll serve it to me, but I do think that cooking it in omelets sometimes takes away from the pure, creamy richness that make California avocados so good. This allowed me to cut up and self-serve my bites of avocado—with omelet, with potatoes, or straight up—a small touch, but one I appreciated.
As for the rest of the omelet, my one complaint is that there was a pretty major excess of sour cream (and I have some friends who will curse me for saying so). But I'll maintain that every single bite of omelet does not need to be this coated with sour cream; give the cheese a chance! Still, the excess did go nicely with the well-seasoned and expertly fried breakfast potatoes. And really, what's a good hangover omelet but a neat presentation of items that are simply begging to be made into a pile of stuff?
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