Riesling Report: Klaus Meierer Kestener Paulinsberg Kabinett 2008

We're celebrating the Summer of Riesling by trying a different bottle every weekday. Got a favorite riesling? Recommend it in the comments!


Matthias Meierer and his father Klaus [Photo: Schäfer-Reichart Selections]

This is such a pretty, glimmery wine, with a remarkable clarity—you can see through it, taste through it, to the other side. The scent reminded me of apples and cinnamon, and there's a swirl of that in the flavor, like baked apples stuffed with golden raisins and cinnamon sticks, balanced with a lemony tartness, a hint of Thai basil and juniper, and a very fine, silvery minerality. The body is light and silky, and it brought to mind apple blossoms or peach blossoms floating on a river, the water smoothing the stones underneath. A little salinity rounds it out, and the puckering acidity of a tart Granny Smith apple lingers for minutes after you swallow.

Young winemaker Matthias Meierer (son of Klaus Meierer) is a rising star of the Mosel. He's fresh out of school (he graduated from Geisenheim Viticulture and Enology University in 2005) and works a few days a week as a winemaker at Fritz Haag in addition to the time he spends at his family's 12.5 acre estate. We're excited to follow his career!

This delicate wine calls for a simple trout dinner (serve with new potatoes, a squeeze of lemon, some thyme.) But it could also work as you transition into soft fall flavors—try it with butternut squash ravioli or strands of spaghetti squash tossed with pesto.

Around $22, sample provided for review