Hangover Helper: Chef's Mess at St. Francis Fountain, San Francisco

Hangover Helper

Just what the doctor ordered.


[Photograph: Lauren Sloss]

It's generally a safe bet that one's neighborhood diner will have a healthy selection of hangover-tailored fare. At the St. Francis Fountain, a diner in the Mission chock-full of San Francisco's cool kids blurry eyed from a big night out, you can be sure that the menu aims to cure what ails you.

The Chef's Mess ($9) is hangover food in its purest form: it's an enormous, plate-sized pile of stuff. A mass of eggs scrambled with breakfast potatoes, bacon, and mushrooms would be enough, but it keeps going: a thick layer of melted cheese, tomatoes, green onions, and a healthy dollop of sour cream. It's the kind of dish you attack with your fork, face close to the plate for prime shoveling angles.

The components in the Mess were all excellent (particularly the bacon), but I found myself digging around for the eggs a bit—the potato-to-egg ratio skewed a bit more towards the spuds than I would have liked. Still, with some healthy shakes of Tapatio hot sauce, it made for a satisfying (and filling) plate of food.

The real star of the meal, though, was the flaky, buttery biscuit, golden brown with evidence of a bit of whole wheat flour. I found myself gobbling down two despite being stuffed full of egg-potato-cheese. It was worth it; these biscuits are real contenders for my favorite in the city.

St. Francis Fountain

2801 24th Street, San Francisco CA 94110 (map) 415-826-4200; stfrancisfountainsf.com