With a laid-back diner feel but a menu that's a little more ambitious than any old joint's, Millie's Diner is the kind of place I'd expect to have an enormously satisfying brunch; and luckily, that's the case.
The "Devil's Mess" is their signature dish —a sloppy, open-faced omelette of sausage, onions, green peppers, garlic, cheddar and avocado, but we opted for "Castro's Mess" ($10.75), perhaps even more satisfying. The star of this egg pile is the pork, embedded in thick, fatty shreds and lending porky flavor to everything else. With black beans, a nice, oozy blanket of cheddar, and thin corn tortilla strips that integrate and fall apart, it's like huevos rancheros meeting omelette meeting pork—how could that not be good? The home fries, creamy-middled and heavy on the cumin, are similarly excellent.