It's hard to go wrong with a big cheesy bowl of Anson Mills grits and a runny egg. But the Pork n' Grits at Clover Club ($12) does it one better with a rich pork broth and falling-apart threads of braised pork. "This is a particularly good batch," said our waitress, but I'm guessing it's always pretty good. A shower of savory fried shallots tops it off—a little bit of grease always helps a hangover—and the toasted sourdough adds a hint of smoke.
Since Clover Club is, after all, a cocktail spot, you shouldn't turn down a drink. Go with a Bloody Mary (with gin, vodka, or tequila) or the Barmen's variation that includes rye, basil, and Fernet. Or bridge the gap between savory and sweet with the Cherry Valence ($10) a sherry cobbler variation with Pedro Ximénez, Cherry Heering, muddled cherries, Luxardo Amaro Abano, lemon and orange. It's toasty and complex, laced with maple and molasses notes and brightened with tart citrus.
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