I headed to Alto Adige, in part, to find inspiration again. I'd maneuvered a tough summer, and to be honest, I didn't care about wine much at the moment. "Try to relax and enjoy your trip," my friend told me before I took off. "Italy can do magical things," she promised.
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From a cooperative in Northeast Italy, grown on steep limestone slopes. This is a powerful wine—the first sip is like sucking on an icicle. It's lean and chiseled, with a barbed acidity. A bit of a shock to the palate, with a core of gravel. Austere, citric, less tangy than dry, like freeze-dried limes and grapefruits. A tiny touch more sweetness might bring out the fruit more—this wine is dry as a desert bone.