Serious Eats: Drinks
Pairings Pictured: Morgon, the Sean Connery of Wine
Note from the Artist: Wine and food are opportunities for pleasure and sharing. But wine can often be seen as daunting, making pairing it with food feel difficult. I draw illustrations about wine to express the fun and love for the experience that can also be found. In this series, I want to share a quick insight into wines that are great for the season and the foods they love to spend time with. Enjoy!
You're all dressed for a tennis match or golf game on one last weekend of vacation. You and a friend have plans to play. You arrive at his place expecting to head out shortly for sport but he's there still shirtless, and the breeze through a window has blown his lightly musky scent in your direction. Your mouth starts to involuntarily water. You start teasing him for being slow getting ready and the next thing you know the two of you are laughing mid-wrestle in the smooth pleasure of high-thread-count sheets. Who knows where this will take you...It's like that with Morgon.
At the Southern reach of Burgundy in France lies the region of Beaujolais, where the focus turns from Pinot Noir to the Gamay grape. The entire region of Beaujolais is sometimes mistaken as making only light bodied, fruity wine, thanks to the ubiquitous 'drink it now' bottles of Beaujolais Nouveau that pop up each harvest season. But Morgon grows its gamay in serious, mineral driven soils that give more structure and a pleasing smooth texture to the wine. Suddenly, you've been seduced by robust, powerful, fleshy intensity you didn't even know you wanted to find. It's no small trick turning Gamay into Sean Connery in his 30s—all quiet, spontaneous confidence—but that's just what Morgon does.
Expect stone fruit spinning into pomegranate and blueberry with exotic spice, a touch of musk, and a finish that lasts for days. The texture is all raw silk. Depending on the producer, the wine can span from lost-in-the-mountains rustic, or muscle-fit-masculine in a smooth dark suit. The wine pairs brilliantly with a pâté to start, or roast duck turned into rillettes, then luscious braised beef stew, or a juicy lamb or beef burger.
Producers to watch from Morgon:
Foillard makes a full-of-life gorgeous floral-fruit 'Cuvee Corcelette' and a more rustic and lightly earthy 'Cote du Py.' For bright, fleshy ripeness with a sense of 'seize-the-day-to-relax', go for anything from Lapierre. For a little less cultivation and a little more funky dance in the form of spice and ferrous notes (like you've suddenly realized life in a log cabin is the only life you want) check out Breton.
About the Artist: Hawk Wakawaka is a wine drawing philosopher with a heart of gold. She also writes the website Hawk Wakawaka Wine Reviews.