I have little patience for long lines, so I haven't braved dim sum at Koi Palace on a weekend. Despite the vast size of this just-South-of-San-Francisco spot's cavernous dining rooms, I hear they're jammed if you attempt to visit on a Saturday. But some of us find ourselves at cocktail bars on school nights, and then those people (ahem) crave crisp-fried dumplings and soft rice rolls and pillowy pork-stuffed buns by lunchtime the next day. Koi Palace makes tons of sense on a Wednesday: after a quick hop on the highway, we walked right in and breezily snagged a table for two.
Though 'burrito' isn't really the keyword you're usually looking for on a dim sum menu, this particular item, the Shredded Duck Burrito ($6.90) is a must-order at Koi Palace. (You can select it on the written menu; we didn't see it showing up on the carts that make their way around the dining room.) The duck burrito might be called a 'duck pancake' elsewhere: it's essentially a set of two flaky, just slightly-greasy, tender scallion pancakes, rolled around moist, rich slices of duck and spears of cucumber. Dipped in hoisin sauce, it's sweet-savory-salty-rich in all the right ways.