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[Photograph: Clay Larsen]

Big is beautiful, right? Oversized margaritas, yard-long beers, shots the size of punch bowls? If you went large last night, chances are you're going to need a morning-after breakfast that's just as bulky. Bar Amá, the dinky downtown TexMex space that's helping to expand the chef Josef Centeno empire one puffy taco at a time, is just the place for you. You may have to request a four-top table to squeeze in you and your outsized hangover, but there's one breakfast item on the menu that will make you shudder in its shadow: the sausage breakfast taco.

Make no mistake, this thing is a monster, and not in that lurching, slow-moving way. The sausage breakfast taco is a Danny Boyle-style zombie, in your face and unexpected. It may not conform to traditional expectations of what a breakfast taco should be, but this is a new time we're living in, folks.

There's a lot to love about the sausage breakfast taco ($6), that's for sure. This thing is curvy, a half moon of thick hand-patted tortilla, blistered and spotty in all the right places. Instead of trying to button itself up inside the weighty tortilla, this chunky concoction spills hefty yellow nuggets of softly scrambled egg all over the place. You can't stop the breakfast taco; you can't even contain it.

Scrambled in with the egg is a small farm of meat, dairy and vegetables. Warming red salsa, fistfuls of melty cheese and a patch full of shredded lettuce give the pretense of a balanced meal, but that's about it. You'll also find chef Centeno's breakfast sausage tucked under the hood, a snappy series of well-seasoned pork bites that are pressed to the point of almost resembling a kielbasa.

Good luck picking this taco up off the plate. The tortilla is warm and pliable, but that certainly doesn't mean it's sturdy. Instead, go big with a knife and fork. Or, if you're feeling contrarian, shrug off the haters and dive in with two hands to feed your hangover beast. There's nothing subtle about your $6 breakfast taco, so why stop now?

One taco should be more than enough to satisfy a normal human, but ordering up two wouldn't break your weakened bank account and might help you sleep off your hangover for oh, say the next six months. No matter how many tacos you choose to order, or what your method of getting said taco(s) into your face is, you'll be sure to find a smile etched on your lips in no time. A wide grin, falling off the edges of your cheeks like a half-moon tortilla. After all, bigger is better these days.

Bar Amá
118 West 4th Street, Downtown Los Angeles 90013 (map) bar-ama.com
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