Serious Eats: Drinks
Hangover Helper: Happy Accidents at Yolk in Portland, OR
Again and again, eggs prove themselves a reliable contribution to any hangover-stomping breakfast. Makes sense, then, to steer your bleary-eyed self to a cart that wears those intentions proudly on its sleeve: Yolk, an offshoot of Southeast Portland's popular brunch spot Toast. And after a night of throwing caution to the wind and wallowing in excess, why not do the same the next morning by ordering Yolk's chef's-choice, anything-goes, never-the-same-thing-twice sandwich, the Happy Accidents?
Yolk isn't coy about the fact that they flat-out don't care whether or not you'll like what they come up with. Picky eaters, vegetarians, and those with dietary restrictions need not apply. This is a gamble on your part, as they make abundantly clear, but I've yet to see them conjure up anything that wasn't seriously delicious. The owners know their way around a breakfast sandwich, and they're not likely to exchange your hard-earned money with something you'll want to deposit in the nearest trash receptacle.
One one recent morning I was presented with a hefty sandwich on a glorious foot-long slab of baguette. Stuffed between the flavorful halves of bread were the components chosen specifically (or randomly, for all I know) for my Happy Accidents: two large eggs, two strips of crisp bacon, a handful of greens, cubed zucchini, sliced eggplant, grilled onions, and—here's the kicker—moist, tender hunks of grilled tuna, all slathered with a vibrant Romesco sauce.
It seemed like a lot of ingredients until the first bite, and then, magically, it all made sense. The eggs took center stage, with their rich yolks rupturing and spilling all over everything else, ensuring that each bite carried a unifying flavor. I wasn't sure what to make of the thick wedges of zucchini, but they were sufficiently softened so as to avoid any clashing textures. The bacon, despite being doused in yolk, elicited a satisfying crunch and didn't become gummy or chewy.
The real standout, however, was the tuna. Perfectly cooked and devoid of any unpleasant fishiness, it played beautifully with the eggs and bacon, much to my surprise. Now I wonder at my ignorance.
Yolk's menu is filled with other great egg-centric sandwiches, all of which will deliver comfort food tailor-made for returning your booze-infused bloodstream to equilibrium. But the Happy Accidents, like a designated driver, is for those people willing to put their trust completely in more capable hands. I'd order it again in a heartbeat; how else would I have I have discovered the joys of a tuna sandwich for breakfast? Just be prepared for anything. As the woman at the register handed me my sandwich, she said with a sly smile and a knowing nod of her head, "This was quite the concoction." Yes, it was.
About the author: Adam Lindsley is a Pacific Northwest-based writer, musician, and the author of the pizza blog, This Is Pizza. You can follow him at @ThisIsPizza on Twitter. He is currently on a serious weizenbock kick, so if you have a particular favorite, be sure to let him know.