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[Photographs: Max Falkowitz]

As often as not, my mornings after leave me feeling repulsed by anything more than a small bite of food to make the worst of the pain go away. That's probably because as often as not, my nights of drinking to excess are accompanied by eating to the gross limits of what's considered acceptable. (Let's just say it seems like a good idea at the time, and it's far too easy to lose track of how many late night dumplings you've downed.)

For mornings like these, something small and a little greasy is just what I'm looking for. And the empanadas ($2.25 each) and croquetas de queso ($4.50) on Coppelia's brunch (and dinner) menu are just the thing. The chicken and corn empanada is your best bet: tender pulled chicken with little nubs of mild corn and a smoky sweetness to play against the flaky pastry. A strong tomato vibe ties the filling together, blending sweet and savory into one complete bite.

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Less virtuous, but perhaps more conducive to sopping up the evening's indiscretions, are the croquetas. Okay, let's drop the fancy talk. They're fried cheese balls, a little oozy, a little squeaky, in a thin, ever so lightly greasy breading. Skip the unremarkable, muddy sauce and eat them straight. They're salty, slightly tangy, and good for what ails you. An order of them, plus an empanada or two, are just enough to get you on your feet without sending you back to bed.

About the author: Max Falkowitz is the editor of Serious Eats: New York. You can follow him on Twitter at @maxfalkowitz.

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