Cool Drinks, San Francisco: The Moss at Tacolicious

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[Photograph: Carrie Vasios]

The menu at Tacolicious has a section for "Drivers, Kids, and Recovering Bartenders." I like to swagger like the latter while ordering a Moss ($4). This combination of pineapple juice, passion fruit juice, and sparkling lemonade is essentially a cocktail without the booze.

Though I saw some simple syrup drizzled in, it's much more tart than sweet. The passion fruit juice dominates, imparting a cheek-puckering tartness that is just barely balanced by the pineapple. The flavor is a rare find: tropical and fruity without being saccharine. I was equally impressed with the restraint given to the sparkling lemonade. Instead of filling half the glass with carbonation, the bartender simply topped off the juices with a bit of fizz. The Moss is the kind of refreshing tropical drink I'd like to sip on a warm afternoon when the addition of rum is still off the table.

Tacolicious

2031 Chestnut Street, San Francisco, CA 94123 (map) 415-346-1966 www.tacolicioussf.com