Riesling Report: Von Hövel Oberemmeler Hütte Riesling Spätlese 2009
We're celebrating the Summer of Riesling by trying a different bottle every weekday. Got a favorite riesling? Recommend it in the comments!
This is wonderful wine. It's light and lithe for a Spätlese, with a creamy minerality (picture standing barefoot in a cool, rushing stream, the rocks soft and round under your toes, the green scents of moss and pine all around.) The flavors swirl and meld together: fennel seed, greengage plum, apricot jam, a hint of almond. Sweet pear and applesauce notes (with flecks of vanilla bean) are balanced with tart, prickly acidity and hints of spearmint. There's a tangy lime hard candy flavor too, a drizzle of caramel on green apples, and a delicate floral note tucked between the slate and fruit.
If you're leery of sweet wines, this Mosel riesling may convince you that you've been missing out—it's deep in flavor but not overrich, detailed and complex and most importantly, balanced. It's perfectly happy alongside good bread and fresh mozzarella, and would shimmer with a fresh crab salad, but it could stand up to something richer too; try miso-glazed cod or duck glazed with ginger and soy.
Around $24, sample provided for review.
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