Riesling Report: Hiedler Riesling Urgestein 2009

We're celebrating the Summer of Riesling by trying a different bottle every weekday. Got a favorite riesling? Recommend it in the comments!

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[Photograph: Robyn Lee]

Sometimes a wine has a little peppery alcohol heat, or a hint of the slightly floral note of white pepper, but I have never tasted a wine with such a vivid freshly-cracked black pepper flavor as this. It's unmistakable, building and soaring as you swallow. This wine is almost plush compared to the other Austrian rieslings we've tried lately, tart and slim but rounded with floral and vegetable flavors, hints of fennel and loads of celery stalks. We were reminded of a light chicken broth made with lots of cooked carrots, celery, and maybe a fennel bulb. And of course, pepper ground on top. Precise and cutting limelike acids keep it fresh.

There's an umami character to this riesling; it has a savory quality that would make it a worthy partner for light-fleshed fish and soy-dipped sushi, miso-glazed cod or even delicately smoked trout.

About $22, sample provided for review.

More Riesling From Austria:

Schloss Gobelsburg Riesling 'Gobelsburger', 2010 »
Bründlmayer Riesling 'Kamptaler Terrassen', 2009 »
Weingut Jäger Riesling Smaragd Ried Achleiten 2009 »
Domäne Wachau Terrassen Smaragd 2009 »
Nikolaihof Riesling Vom Stein Smaragd, 2008 »
Hirsch Zobing Riesling Kamptal 2009 »

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