We're celebrating the Summer of Riesling by trying a different bottle every weekday. Got a favorite riesling? Recommend it in the comments!

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At first sniff, you might think this Alsatian wine was going to be soft and gentle; there are hints of orange blossom and scented candles there. But focused, tart fruit trumpets forward with the first sip—it's a puckering mouthful, and bold if not quite medium-bodied at 12.5% ABV. Refreshing, yes, but this isn't a breezy, gauzy wine—it's like a statue made of cool marble dropped suddenly on your table. It's commanding and elegant but unforgiving. Lime leaf, tart plums, a little musky peach, and hints of grainy corn are wrapped tightly in a laser-sharp acidity.

A little fat helps to soften the edge—serve with creamy cheeses or bratwurst, or try oily fish like mackerel or grilled sardines with lemon. It was wonderful with slightly gamey prosciutto from La Quercia.

This wine is around entry level for Zind-Humbrecht, which also produces the most delicious muscat I've ever tasted.

Around $20-23, sample provided for review.

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