A Hamburger Today
Riesling Report: St Michael-Eppan Montiggl Riesling 2009, Alto Adige
July is riesling month! We're drinking it all month long...and maybe longer. Got a favorite riesling? Recommend it in the comments!
From a cooperative in Northeast Italy, grown on steep limestone slopes. This is a powerful wine—the first sip is like sucking on an icicle. It's lean and chiseled, with a barbed acidity. A bit of a shock to the palate, with a core of gravel. Austere, citric, less tangy than dry, like freeze-dried limes and grapefruits. A tiny touch of sweetness might bring out the fruit more—this wine is dry as a desert bone.
You get the sense that this wine is hiding something—there's a hint of green flavor here, notes of basil and chives, rosemary, and peach (though not a slutty fragrant one) but it's all wrapped so tightly in acid that the wine comes off elegant but distant. "This is a cat wine," said one drinker, "not a dog wine."
And we're dog people, but there's a place for this—a crisp sip on a hot night, with a few slices of sashimi. The herbal notes also call out for pasta with pesto and green beans.
Around $19, sample provided for review.
More Riesling Reports
From New York:
Hermann J. Wiemer Late Harvest Riesling 2009 2009 »