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I rolled into Red Rooster last Sunday (full restaurant review here) valiantly fighting against a baby hangover that threatened to bloom into a full-on assault, hoping that a bit of fat-and-protein based sustenance might aid me in my battle.

"Bacon" is a bit of a misnomer for the meaty hunks of pork belly you get in the Jerk Bacon & Egg ($16). If the meat is cured, it's only mildly so. Rather, it tastes like great fresh braised or confited pork belly that gets finished off with a sweet and hot glaze, fragrant with warm spices. Served on top of a cast iron skillet of gut-filling tender beans, a soft fried egg, and a small forkful of sweet and sour pikliz, I can tell you this: however it's made or whatever you call it, it gets the job done.

I left a stronger, better man.

Red Rooster

310 Lenox Avenue, New York NY 10037 (b/n 125th and 126th Streets; map); 212-792-9001; redroosterharlem.com

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