Serious Eats: Drinks
Philadelphia: Great Frappés at Capogiro
When is a milkshake not a milkshake? When it's a frappé, silly! Regional arguments seethe over whether frappés have ice cream, no ice cream and only milk, flavoring syrup, no flavoring syrup, whether they are really egg creams...we could argue all day here. But what a waste of frappe-drinking time that would be. At Philadelphia's esteemed Capogiro, the frappé is a simple and delicate way to sample the innovative (and delicious) gelato flavors.
Capogiro's house frappé is an almost airy blend made with their subtle gelato and milk—for a drink in the milkshake family, it's almost refreshing. We were encouraged to combine the chain's many seasonally changing flavors, and who wouldn't want a little sea salt gelato in their butterscotch bourbon gelato, and vice versa?
The sea salt gelato provided a perfect, slightly-textured tempering to the sweet sweet butterscotch, starting light and clean but ending with a buttery, just slightly savory finish like a British toffee candy. Capogiro's already ultralight gelato, which has none of that glueyness that we wooden-spoon-toters are rightly phobic about, lends itself perfectly to the breezy, balanced addition of milk. And the even better addition of a straw.